Hotel restaurants are always there for the weary traveler with reliable yet often uninspiring menus. Most usually have a bar just around the corner, but within sight of the lobby. Décor is habitually underwhelming but fine. It probably matches the interior of a similar hotel in another city or another time- placeless and timeless, but not in a good way. Most are sterile and unmemorable.
Times are changing, and hotels are stepping things up for more than travelers. Places big and small are built and revamped, providing an escape from the ordinary to the opulent and imaginable.
In 2017 Hotel Clermont reopened with luxury details to its 94 rooms, a downstairs brasserie, and a swanky bar on the main level bedecked with blue velvet and brass accents. They hired a celebrated bartender to oversee a beverage program of craft cocktails. Tiny Lou’s became a much-lauded destination for the French fare of chef Jeb Aldrich. Not only are tourists flocking, but locals are eating, drinking, and staying at the Clermont. If you build it…err renovate it, they will come.
There are two new bright lights on the scene, and already the dining rooms and bars within have a mix of traveler and in-towner perched in seats.
Downtown’s Candler Building was built between 1904 and 1906 for Coca Cola magnate Asa Candler. The edifice was Atlanta’s tallest building at the time and a tribute to its namesake. The headquarters of Central Bank and Trust co-founded by Candler were inside the 17-story building. Over time the building served as an office building and landed a spot of the National register of Historic Places.
Late 2019 The Candler Hotel – a Curio Collection by Hilton – opened its doors in the Beaux Arts style building. It’s art deco glamour in its finest form. Its 265 rooms are bright and airy with large scale windows with views of Peachtree street, Kennesaw and Stone Mountain, depending which way you look. The timeless design is both upscale and approachable.
Marble winged lions stand guard and the foot of a grand winding marble staircase just as they did 100 years ago. Overhead Tiffany windows and a dazzling chandelier sparkle. There are brass gargoyles and friezes of Candler’s family.
The former bank now houses restaurant By George, named for architects George E. Murphy and George Stewart, who designed the building. Helmed by restaurateur/author Hugh Acheson, polished servers wind around original marble pillars with Acheson’s classic cuisine with a French tilt. Celebrate sommelier Steven Grubbs expertly pairs wines. Cocktails are curated by Kellie Thorn.
Eat: A selection of Southern oysters; Langoustine with lemon, olive oil and chiles; Terrine of foie gras and chicken liver; Georgia Trout with sunchoke and sauce meuniere; Paris-Brest with hazelnut cream from pastry chef Nicole Bernier.
Drink: This art deco glamour perfectly matches a glass of Charles Ellner ‘Carte Blanche’ Brut. Sip on the signature cocktail, “The Candler,” with vodka, dry curacao, vanilla, bitters, citrus and sparkling wine.
Newly opened The Burgess is Buckhead’s first boutique hotel. The 102-room property was envisioned by husband and wife hospitality partners Burges and Freny Jokhi as an internationally inspired boutique hotel.
Rooms have a contemporary style with tributes to travel as a theme. Custom artwork and design hinges on clean lines, bold textures and vivid color.
Mr. B Bar is named in honor of Freny’s father Keki Bunshah, who organized the first Indian expedition to Mt. Everest. Photos of expeditions to the mountain adorn the 60-seat lounge. It has an intimate library feel with a cozy fireplace for hibernating along with craft cocktails and “fine spirits.” Guests can enjoy the full menu of FIA in the bar.
Chef-driven FIA was designed around a wood-burning oven, in which many of the Mediterranean inspired menu entrees get a hint of smoky flavor. Executive chef Daniel Porubiansky’s resume includes Bacchanalia and cooking with chef Gûnter Seeger.
Eat: Grilled Whole Branzino with herbs and citrus salad and Charcoal Octopus with roasted red pepper, olives, capers, lemon and olive oil.
Drink: Mr. B Gin and Tonic made with Genepy, lime-infused gin, and Indian tonic or a Pecan Old Fashioned with coconut-infused bourbon.
The Candler Hotel (127 Peachtree Street NE, Atlanta; 404-523-1200, curiocollection3.hilton.com)
The Burgess Hotel (3600 Piedmont Road, Atlanta; 404-869-1100, theburgesshotel.com)
