The excessive heat wave in Atlanta gave way to autumn at the very last minute. We are already plunging into the kind of cold evenings that call for comfort food. What we need are heaping spoonfuls of potage in all forms to warm our bodies and souls from within. Whether you are partial to a thick stew or a consommé, Atlanta is ladled with rich bowls to welcome the weather.
Oxtail French Onion Soup, The Federal
Chefs Shaun Doty and Lance Gummere are known for their French onion soup and it is back on their Midtown menu. Using an oxtail beef consommé, the soup is more than flavorful, its rich in nutrients like glucosamine, magnesium, glycine, and chondroitin, which promote joint and bone health. It’s a play on oxtail stew and French onion soup and we’re here for those tender chunks of oxtail aged cheese.
1050 Crescent Avenue NE, Atlanta; 404-343-3857, thefederalatl.com
Sweet Potato Soup, Deer and the Dove
This rustic soup swirls with velvety richness and slight sweetness. Chef Terry Koval uses local Dayspring Farms sweet potatoes and adds further earthy crunch with toasted pumpkin seeds. Dots of lemon oil add the perfect acidic balance that makes you stop and go, “mmm.” It’s only served at brunch and it comes with a hefty serving of wood grilled bread. Pro tip: get a few of those house-made wood oven baked bagels to go.
155 Sycamore Avenue, Decatur; 404-748-4617, deerdove.com
Cauliflower Soup, Nine Mile Station
With few ingredients, Nine Mile Station conjures heaps of flavor. I would take the elevator ride up to the rooftop of Ponce City Market just for a bowl of the hearty cauliflower soup. It’s roasted and blended silky smooth with just enough Parmesan Reggiano and dots of chili oil. Take in the panoramic views as you sip and maybe cozy up to a fire pit.
675 Ponce de Leon Avenue, Atlanta; 770-999-1532, 9milestation.com
Pho Ga, Nam Phuong
The broth looks clear and light in this Vietnamese pho, but one sip and you will taste layers of a broth that has simmered for a long time, extracting flavors of herbs, spices, and chicken bones. It’s tonic-like the way it is imbued with richness and subtle spice. There are hefty slabs of poached chicken and oodles of soft, slippery noodles. You will get a dish of herbs, peppers, bean sprouts and limes to customize. And this is one to take to a friend who needs a pick me up. It’s travels well, as they pack all the parts separately.
4051 Buford Highway NE, Atlanta; 404-633-2400, namphuongatlanta.com
Ramen at The General Muir
There’s a new night in town to add to the menu. Mondays at The General Muir are for ramen. Chef Todd Ginsberg has a small menu of similar items to go with hearty bowls. Steamed buns and corned beef gyozas will set you up for an evening of slurping. There are three disparate bowls to choose from, Chicken Pai Tan, Beef, and Umami Bomb with blistered shishitos, nori (seaweed), cauliflower, mushrooms, and scallions.
1540 Avenue Place, Emory Point; 678-927-9131, thegeneralmuir.com
Celery Root Soup, Aria
This soup remains an Atlanta classic for more reason than one. From the gnarly clod that is celery root, chef Gerry Klaskala conjures the luscious and creamy flavor of celery meets parsley. And he does this without the use of cream. Instead he slowly cooks leeks with chicken stock for richness. A decadent finish of shaved black truffle is both an adornment and flavor enhancement.
490 E. Paced Ferry Road NE, Buckhead; 404-233-7673, aria-atl.com
My Dad’s Turkey Chili, Souper Jenny
Sometimes you just need a bowl of familiar comfort. Souper Jenny’s best-selling soup has always been a family recipe. It’s thick, chunky, a tiny bit sweet, and chock full of veggies and beans. It comes with a hunk of toasted bread for dipping. It’s one of those stick-to-your-ribs kinds of dishes that warms to the toes. Jenny Levinson even shares the recipe, if you want to cook it at home.
Multiple Atlanta locations. souperjennyatl.com.
